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LAND WITHOUT BREAD

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This cinematographic test of
human geography was rolled in 1932,

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just a short time after the
coming of the Spanish Republic.

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In opinion of the geographers and the travellers,
the region who are going to visit, called the Hurdes,

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is a barren and inhospitable region,
in which the man is forced to fight,
hour to hour, by the subsistence.

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Until 1922, year in which the first highway
drew up, the Hurdes almost was not known

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00:00:46,900 --> 00:00:49,987
for the rest of the world and
even for the inhabitants of Spain.

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Before arriving at the Hurdes,
we must pass by the Pond,
quite rich town,

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00:00:55,789 --> 00:00:59,458
of feudal character, that it has a
great influence on the life of the Hurdes,

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00:00:59,789 --> 00:01:03,098
where almost all the inhabitants
are tributary of this town.

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This is the church of the Pond.

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Two skulls in their niche seems to
preside over the destinies of this town.

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Generally, the houses has three floors.
Its architecture is little frequent

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in Spain and give to
the streets a medieval aspect.

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Most of the houses has recorded on
their door a religious inscription:

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"Ave Mar�a, conceived without sin"

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On day of our arrival we see
the women dressed for a great ceremony.

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We ask why they wear those pretty dresses.

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They reply that they must go to the Church square,
where they're going to celebrate

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like every year, a strange and
Barbarian celebration.

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Newly wedded men,
in front of gathered town,

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each on of them must
take the head of a rooster.

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Between two corners, a cord extends

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of which hangs a rooster
tied by the legs.

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Each of the riders, in gallop,
will have to take the head of a rooster.

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After walking triumphantly with
the heads of the rooster through the squares

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and the streets of town, the grooms
offer wine to everybody.

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The escanciadores, along with the wine,

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offer pleasures to thousands.

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Among others, we see this
boy rich adorned with silver medals

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Although they are Christian medals,
we cannot help thinking

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the amulets come from savage
villages of Africa and Ocean�a.

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We left the Pond, where
at 7 pm

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almost everybody is already drunk.

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3 kilometers away, from one of the tops
of the mountainss that surround the town,

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we discover the fifty two
towns that constitute the Hurdes,

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with a total population of ten thousand inhabitants.

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through steep slopes, we crossed
the splendid valley of the Batuecas

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inhibited by old monks, who live
with their servants.

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This valley was inhabited for
four centuries by monks, the Carmelites,

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who preached the Christian religion
in the most important towns of the Hurdes.

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The Batuecas has conserved vestiges
of intense prehistoric life.

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In the caverns the are crafty paintings

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representing men, goats and bees.

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Toads, snakes and lizards

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are the only present
inhabitants of these ruins.

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The vegetation is anundent,

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and more than 200 species
grow here freely.

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00:05:08,782 --> 00:05:11,125
Nevertheless, five kilometres
from this valley

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no longer we will find trees.
Only some fruit trees, rockroses and brezos.

51
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The convent is surrounded by a wall
eight kilometres long

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that protects from the attacks
of wolves and wild boars.

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Inside the enclosure,
formed by the wall,

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the ruins of eighteen hermitages,
scattered here and there,

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indicated by one or several cypresses.

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Behind these tops,
that still belong

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to the Batuecas, begin the Hurdes.

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After crossing them, we find the desert
of the Hurdes.

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This town is the Aceitunilla,
located in one of the poorest valleys.

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The white building is the school,
built recently.

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In the streets onthe slope of the mountain
we meet its daily life.

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Peculiar detail, in the towns of the Hurdes
we have never heard singing.

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Sometimes we can run,
in the middle of the town, a

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miserable brook that descends
from the mountains.

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In summer, there is not much
water in the town

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and the inhabitants use it,
in spite of the filthy dirt
in the channel.

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There are weired scenes here.

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The river serves the whole town

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Three children eat a bread slice
dipped in water.

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The bread, until recently,
was almost unknown in the Hurdes.

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It seems that children's teacher,

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makes the children eat in
his presence, fearing

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that as soon as they arrive home,
theit parents will take it away.

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They call the children to the school.

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These ragged, barefoot children,
receive the same education

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as any other children anywhere in the world
who go to the primary school.

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The clothes bring the hurdanos
that emigrate

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for summer to territories
of Castile and Andalusia.

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They are dedicated mainly
to the mendicidad.

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When they return to their land,
they distribute lots of clothes
in exchange for potatoes.

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They teach these hungry children,
like everywhere,

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that the sum of the angles of a triangle
is equal to two right angles.

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In some towns of the Hurdes,
most of the children are "pilus".

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The abandoned will be looked for
by the women of the Hurdes

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from the public assistance
of Rodrigo City, located

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away two days of march through the mountain.

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They are in charge of raising them
in exchange for a fifteen pesetas a month.

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This miserable amount will let the whole family live
until the day,

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not very distant, when the industry of "pilus"
is prohibited in the Hurdes.

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Unexpected and shocking picture
that we discovered in the school.

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Who could make this
absurd engraving here?

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We opened randomly a moral book
that we found in the school.

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One of the best students
writes in the slate,

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on our request ours,
one of the book's maxims.

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The moral that is taught to
these small ones is the one that

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prevails our civilized world:
"Respect the other people's goods".

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In this relatively rich valley,
there are some

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walnuts, cherry trees and olive trees.

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This it is the town of Martilandr�n.

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The crusts that see between the trees,
resambling the shell

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of a mythical animal, is nothing more
than the tile roofs of the town.

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On the town entraning,
a choir of coughs welcomes us.

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Most of the inhabitants are sick.

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The scenes that appear to our sight
are of a devastating misery.

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The goiter is the specific illness of the Hurdes High,

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that constitute the main object of this report.  

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See this woman with its goiter:

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does not have more than thirty-two years.  

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00:10:52,884 --> 00:10:55,334 Visit the town accompanied by the mayor of Martilandr�n.

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In a deserted street we find a girl.  
Do 

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Ask al mayor what has.  

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responds that since three days ago the girl is there without being moved.  

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should be patient, therefore complains.  

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One of our friends, himself about to her

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to be reported of what hurts it in the throat.  

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Asks It that open the mouth

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and we can see him the gums and the throat inflamed.  

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Unfortunately we cannot do anything by her.  

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Two days later we returned al town.

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Al to ask for her, they responded that it had died.  

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Of what the inhabitants of this sterile land are fed?  

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The only food that arrange, or almost,

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are the potatos and the beans, and not always;

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especially in the months of June and July,

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to this same base of its diet lacks them.  

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Its diet c�rnica is composed only of hog.  

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Only the rich families, if can be called them thus, possess a hog.  

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Each year kill al hog: devour the meat in three days.

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In the most fertile places olives grow.  

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often the fruits are devoured for the insects.  

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The goat is the animal that better resists in these sterile spots.  

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Its milk for the serious patients is reserved that wet in her the bread

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that the beggars bring of far away and that also is kept for the patients.  

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Only meat of goat is consumed when some is killed,

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thing that happens at times when the floor is abrupt and the steep paths.

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The main alimentary industry of The Hurdes is the apicultura.  

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But the hives, in its majority, do not belong to the hurdanos.  

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Besides, the honey that the bees extract of the flower of the brezo, is very
bitter.  

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The owners of the hives are people of The Pool.  

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Only leave the hives to the hurdanos during the winter,

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that here is smoother than in the neighboring province of Salamanca.  

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In spring, transport the comenas to Castille.

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In this epoch, is normal to find one or various loaded animals with the hives

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and that are directed to Castille.  

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A day, we find to this donkey, with its load of hives,

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that two hurdanos carry to Salamanca.  

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a little later, while we eat tranquilly, someone asks aid.  

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The hurdanos had tied al stupid.  One of the hives had fallen

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and the animal had been attacked for the bees.  

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The disorderly movements that caused to be defended they caused

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the fall of other hives

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and emjambres of bees precipitated on him.  

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An hour later, was dead person.  A month before our arrival,

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three men and eleven mulos had died in the same way.  

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The months of May and June are the hardest since, in this epoca

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have exhausted its provisions of potatos.  

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Then are fed of cherries, and as the hunger presses, do not leave that

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come they to mature and them are eaten green, which dysentery causes them.  

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Is then when begin the migrations.

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The men to the ones that does not retain the illness and have been freed of
the fevers,

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go to Castille or to Extremadura, to try to work in it reaps.  

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We find Ourselves with some of these caravans, of 10, 30, 50 men,

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provided only of a blanket.  

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do Not have money neither bread and go very far away, on foot, to seek work.
 
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We cross Ourselves, several days later, with a group of those men

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that return as themselves they were, without money and without bread.

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Arrive now to one of the essential points of this report.  

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What do the hurdanos to build the field that will permit them to eat?  

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Begin for choosing a next land to the edge, later with the aid

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of its women, its parents and its friends,

171 
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eliminate the vegetaci� habitual of rockroses and of brezos.  

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The tools are always rudimentary: a peak and a pairs.  

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do Not arrange of other instruments to work.  

174 
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The plow is stranger in the majority of the towns of The Hurdes.

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Once the land is cleared,

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raise walls of stones, put some on another, without mortero.  

177 
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This wall will protect al field of the winter floods.  

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When the wall is built, have to be going to seek

179 
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the vegetable land to the mountain.  

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Fill bags that transport later through the zarzas to its field.  

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This work occupies them generally during several weeks.  

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See the thin vegetable layer of land that covers a field hurdano.

183 
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The first year the crop is abundant, but later the land is exhausted,

184 
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to lack of elmentos nitrogenados, and returns sterile.  

185 
00:16:29,787 --> 00:16:32,777 
All the fields of The Hurdes have form of straits

186 
00:16:32,999 --> 00:16:35,032 
bands of land al edge of the river.  

187 
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often, them grown winter annihilate in uns instants the work of all a year.  

188 
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This is the characteristic meander of a course of water of The Hurdes

189 
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with the small fields escalonados.  

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TO lack of money and of animal servants

191 
00:16:56,550 --> 00:16:58,234 
the hurdano cannot obtain guarantee.

192 
00:16:58,560 --> 00:17:02,222 
Therefore has to go to the mountain to seek with what to do it,

193 
00:17:02,555 --> 00:17:04,377 
as the family that see here.  

194 
00:17:19,887 --> 00:17:21,888 
The roads are difficult and the footwear is scarce.  

195 
00:17:29,772 --> 00:17:32,888 
The most appreciated guarantee is the one that the hurdanos manufacture they

196 
00:17:33,005 --> 00:17:37,238 
with the dry leaves of the tassel, not a very abundant bush in these
mountains.  

197 
00:17:37,560 --> 00:17:42,999 
When they arrive at a favorable place, they fill the bags with the precious leaves.  

198 
00:17:46,444 --> 00:17:49,444 
But in these places the v�per is a very widespread animal.

199 
00:17:49,700 --> 00:17:52,902 
One of these peasants was stung by a viper some days ago

200 
00:17:53,389 --> 00:17:54,802 
when collected leaves of tassel.  

201 
00:17:55,200 --> 00:17:57,700 
The mordedura is not almost never mortal by itself same.  

202 
00:17:57,999 --> 00:18:02,234 
The hurdanos are the ones that, while they try to be cured, at times infect it
mortally.  

203 
00:18:15,887 --> 00:18:19,300 
When they have finished collecting of leaves, the peasants return to the town

204 
00:18:19,678 --> 00:18:22,778 
and empty the content of the bags inside the houses.  

205 
00:18:25,889 --> 00:18:28,770 
On these leaves animals and people sleep together.  

206 
00:18:28,999 --> 00:18:32,700 
The leaves decompose slowly and, some months later,

207 
00:18:33,002 --> 00:18:34,600 
they will use them as a guarantee.  

208 
00:18:46,770 --> 00:18:48,400 
This is the house of an inhabitant of Fracassant.  

209 
00:18:48,790 --> 00:18:51,900 
Through the entrance you walk on a bed of leaves,

210 
00:18:52,200 --> 00:18:54,802 
that is always present in the houses of the hurdanos.  

211 
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Interior characteristics of a house.  

212 
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All the utensils are primitive and scarce.  

213 
00:19:18,990 --> 00:19:23,345 
The smoke leaves where it is able.  There are no chimneys or windows.  

214 
00:19:29,800 --> 00:19:32,800 
In summer, the water runs almost dry and this fact

215 
00:19:33,140 --> 00:19:36,821 
is the origin of malaria, transmitted by the mosquito anofeles.

216 
00:19:37,335 --> 00:19:39,969 
is able to say that all the hurdanos are affected by malaria.  

217 
00:19:40,370 --> 00:19:42,589 
This illness at present is fought by

218 
00:19:42,921 --> 00:19:45,440 
the doctors of the three "Factories" of The Hurdes.  

219 
00:19:45,743 --> 00:19:48,304 
The larva has to rise to the surface of the water to breathe.  

220 
00:19:48,620 --> 00:19:51,702 
If it stays parallel to the surface, it is a larva of anofeles.  

221 
00:19:51,990 --> 00:19:55,900 
If is stays perpendicular, it is a larva of culex, an inoffensive mosquito.  

222 
00:19:56,400 --> 00:19:58,823 
The adult anofeles is found in all the houses in the hurdes.

223 
00:19:59,100 --> 00:20:02,300 
it can be recognized because of its perpendicular pose on the wall.  

224 
00:20:09,689 --> 00:20:12,003 
This is the result of a anofeles bite.  

225 
00:20:12,400 --> 00:20:15,700 
A man attacked by the fever, seated near its house.  

226 
00:20:24,756 --> 00:20:27,604 
You can find many patients on the streets.  

227 
00:20:35,367 --> 00:20:39,100 
This patient put to bed on the balcony does not suspect our presence.  

228 
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Balconies are rare

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in the majority of the towns of The Hurdes.  

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The dwarves and the cretins abound in The High Hurdes.  

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Generally their families employ them to take care of the goats.

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Some are dangerous.  


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OR well flee of the men, or well attack them to stonings.  

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They are found in the mountain at the fall of the night,

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when return to the town.  

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We had great difficulties in filming some of them.  

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The realism of a Zurbar�n or of a Bank,

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remains under very similar reality.  

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The degeneration of this race owes itself mainly to hunger,

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00:21:22,121 --> 00:21:25,121 
to the lack of hygiene, to the misery and to incesto.  

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the lowest that see here is twenty-eight years old.

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Here is another type of old cretino.  

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We could only film this thanks to the contribution

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of one of our friends of the hurdanos that knew to entertain its speaker.  

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A day, we see a group of persons in front of the door of a house.  

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A boy has just died.  


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The mother.  

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A death is one of the rare events that can roll himself in these miserable
towns.  

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The women respond in mass to the funeral house.  

250 
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They have explained the complications in transporting a corpse,

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due to that, in many towns, there is not cemetery.  

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They had to transport this boy to the cemetry of Nu�omoral,

253 
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and we decide to continue the body.  

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The corpse was placed in a trough

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and taken for many kilometres through the thickets.  

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If the dead person is an adult,

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they tie the body to a stair and carry him thus to the cemetery.  

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This sometimes requires hours of march.  

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See the step of a river with the corpse.

260 
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The cemetery shows that, in spite of the great misery of the hurdanos,

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its religious and moral ideas are the same as

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in any another part of the world.  

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The court summons of the tombs is indicated by a cross

264 
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or by a piece of wood.  


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The uniquely luxurious things that we have found in The Hurdes are the churches.  

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This is found in one of the most miserable towns.  

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An interior of the most comfortable of the inhabitants.

268 
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Here are the father, the son, the daughter-in-law and the two grandchildren.  

269 
00:24:34,787 --> 00:24:37,503 
On the wall, the presence of this role trimmed and

270 
00:24:37,810 --> 00:24:40,800 
the alignment of the covers detonate a certain sense of the decoration.  

271 
00:24:43,779 --> 00:24:46,880 
In some towns, a woman travels through the streets at night.  

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Is the pregonera of the death?  

273 
00:24:49,590 --> 00:24:54,889 
Goes agitating a chime and at times stops for salmodiar a prayer.  

274 
00:24:58,789 --> 00:25:02,400 
All the inhabitants of a house hurdana live in an only room.  

275 
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This house is a little more comfortable.

276 
00:25:06,132 --> 00:25:08,900 
Is composed of a stable in the lower flat and,

277 
00:25:09,228 --> 00:25:12,100 
in the first flat, of a kitchen and one room.  

278 
00:25:12,432 --> 00:25:14,340 
Surprisingly, there is a bed.  

279 
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The hurdanos go to bed completely dressed in winter.  

280 
00:25:31,650 --> 00:25:34,006 
They wear the clothes until they fall in shreds.  

281 
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This is what this woman says:

282 
00:25:42,220 --> 00:25:46,002 
"Not to have swum that maintain better awake than thinking always in the
death.  

283 
00:25:46,300 --> 00:25:50,001 
you Pray a Fowl Mar�a by the rest of the soul of. .."  

284 
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after being two months in The Hurdes, we leave the region.

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The misery that this movie comes to show us is not a hopeless misery.  In
other regions of Spain,

286 
00:26:12,700 --> 00:26:18,780 
monta�eros, rural and working its conditions of life managed to improve being associated, being helped mutually,

287 
00:26:19,156 --> 00:26:25,560 
being claimed near the Public Powers.  This current that will carry the Town toward a better life,

288 
00:26:25,900 --> 00:26:31,460 
will orient the last elections and will give place to the birth of a government of the Popular Front.  

289 
00:26:31,900 --> 00:26:36,400 
The rebellion of the generals helped by Hitler and Mussolini should
re-establish the privilege of the large owners,

290 
00:26:36,789 --> 00:26:42,002 
but Working and Rural of Spain they will conquer to Franco and their
accomplices.  With the aid of the antifascist of all

291 
00:26:42,300 --> 00:26:45,703 
the world, the calm, the work, the happiness, they gave rise to the civil war

292 
00:26:46,002 --> 00:26:49,777 
and they will make the miserable homes that this film has shown you disappear forever.